. Remove the black plastic from the fender
2. Remove the 3 bolts holding the foot peg bar, which should give you access to the cover....
3. Now remove the cover bolts and set the cover aside. You may have to hold the foot brake down to get the cover off...
4. Next remove the 3 bolts holding the dust cap/guard on the primary and set aside...this will let you see the bolt for the primary... (Note: there are “bolt spacers” on the top and right bolts (I think… I know it’s two of the three) of the three-legged aluminum cage – make sure you don’t loose these) – make sure to take note of actually where these spacers came from, you’ll need to reinstall them when you put it back together.
5. Now use an impact gun (I used a socket) to remove the bolt. I think it’s a 17mm socket (It is)
6. Now slide the primary off the splined shaft and set aside...
7. Next use the impact gun and socket to remove the nut on the secondary pulley and then slide it off and set it aside.... (I used a socket here too) You’ll want to be careful when using the rotor holder tool. Dave Ash had a good suggestion: Use two cover bolts for the ends of the rotor holder and thread them into the two small holes near the center of the secondary. Instead of using the 2 of the three tapered holes in the secondary – one guy broke them out by using them)

OK now you’re ready to install the weights...
1. Take the cover off the primary (it will just slide off) to expose the weights. Set the weights out and use a socket to tap the weights out of the Teflon/plastic rollers...
2. Once there tapped out now tap the others in BUT make sure to tap them in straight
or press them in using a vice and 2 metal plates...
3. Now put the rollers back in and the cover back on the primary and set aside....


OK now for the secondary…
(I put the spring compressor tool onto the secondary before starting with step 1)
1. Set it on a flat surface and use a punch to tap the nut
loose (its normal threads)....
2. Now get a buddy (Use the spring compressor tool) to hold pressure on the
spring cup while you take the nut off.....
3. Now here’s the hard part. Set the stock spring aside and place the new one on and place the cup over it ...now if your strong enough (I did it) compress the spring by hand while twisting about a quarter of a turn to line up the spring cup with
the notch on the threaded shaft...once held down tell your buddy to hurry
and start the nut... (Make sure the quarter turn puts additional compression on the spring – It needs to be turned counter clock wise.… There are notes on this in the forum, I think Wrongway did his the “wrong way” and it didn’t work)
4. Once started, tap it back tight and now your ready to reinstall the pulleys. TIP...use 2 cover bolts to thread into the secondary pulley so that it spreads apart making it easier to install the belt... (No need to do this until you have torqued the secondary into place)
5. Place the secondary pulley onto the shaft and start the nut and tighten with the impact gun..... (Again, I used a socket and torque wrench – use rotor holder tool with cover bolts threaded into the two holes near the center – torque to 80ft-lbs?)
6. (Here’s where I used the cover bolts to spread the two secondary halves apart) With the secondary pulley spread apart put the belt on with the arrows pointing to
the front on the KQ.... (if you’re using a new belt, direction doesn’t matter)

Here is a key point, make sure you do this: Spreading the secondary with the two bolts is a great idea, but is not sufficient. Once you’ve done this use a ball peen hammer and gently tap the belt deep into the secondary. It’s important that the belt is low in the pulley so that it makes a small diameter on the secondary. This will enable the belt to be high on the primary (larger diameter) – THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT!


8. Make sure to reinstall the three-legged aluminum cage with the two spacers in the correct spot.
9. Now take the 2 cover bolts out from the secondary you used to spread it apart and put the guard/bolt cover back on the primary....
10. Now if everything looks good you can start the bike and see how the pulleys work by giving it a little throttle in neutral....

Go slow here! It’s good to start it up and watch it work, but keep your eye on the main bolt to the primary. If it starts to back itself out, stop immediately (this happened to me, because I torqued the main primary bolt against the belt – see bold blue note above). If it looks good at low rpm’s, accelerate the engine gently to observe the primary weights working… If it all looks good, you are all set.

11. Now put the cover, foot bar, and black plastic back on and ride ...
12. You should be able to pull wheelies with no pulling up on the bars now.