PRIMARY REMOVAL: After removing CVT cover , remove bolt from the center of the primary. This bolt has left hand threads so you turn it to the right to loosen. (3/4 " socket) You will need to hold the primary stationary to do this. I normally use a broom stick to do this , but, there are tools you can buy from Kawasaki to do this.
Insert the clutch puller into the center of the primary where the bolt was. The threads on the puller are right hand threads so you turn the puller to the right until the primary releases from the crankshaft.
It may be on there pretty tight and it will make a loud POP when it releases. Once it releases pull the primary straight out and turn it sideways to bring it out of the belt. Remove the belt and inspect it for damage (eg. hourglassing from being burnt, cords coming loose, separation ect.)
SECONDARY REMOVAL: Remove the retaining nut from the secondary shaft. This nut has right hand threads so you will turn it to the left to loosen. (27mm socket) The secondary needs to be held stationary to do this. I use a extension wedged against the frame to do this. You can buy tools from Kawasaki to do this also. Once the nut is off , slide the secondary off the shaft.
PRIMARY SPRING: Remove the 8 bolts from the clutch cover (10mm socket) and lift off clutch cover. You may have to tap the cover with a rubber mallet to release the dowel pins.
Lift out the spring and replace it with the new one. Here is what the EPI maroon looks like compared to the stock.
Install the cover making sure the arrows on the cover and clutch are aligned.
Inspect the movement of the weights. Make sure they are moving freely. If not , take the nuts off the pins and remove them. Clean the pins and weights. Install and check movement.
If the primary sheaves are glazed over you will need to deglaze them with some fine sand paper. Spray down the sheaves with some brake cleaner and wipe off residue with a rag until it comes clean.
Glazed:
Deglazed:
SECONDARY SPRING: First I'm going to show you a little trick that will make setting the backlash quicker and easier. Hold the secondary up with the belt resting in it. Check to see how deep the belt sits in the secondary.
Here's a pic of mine . It sat too deep in the secondary. This is a indication I will need to remove one shim From the secondary. I will cover this part later.
You will need a spring compressor for this part. Most people make their own but they can be purchased from EPI for about $80.
Attach spring compressor to secondary. Compress spring and remove snap ring . Slowly release compressor and remove the top spring retainer, spring, cup, and washer.
Now it's time to separate the sheaves to remove or add shims for adjusting the backlash. There are 4 roller pins that have to be removed. They ride inside the secondary in the slots that spiral down the walls inside the shaft. Here's a pic of what you'll be looking at. You'll see one of the roller pins sticking out a little at the bottom of slot.
The roller pins have groves cut into them. You can stick the blade of a small flathead screwdriver and pry them out. Turning the sheaves opposite of each other a little while prying the roller out helps them come out easier. Here's a pic of a roller.
With the sheaves separated you can now deglaze them as you did the primary.
Now you can remove or add shims as needed.
Slide the sheaves together and holding them tightly together check and see how far down the belt sets now. Here's a pic of what it should look like. The cooling ribs are sticking above and the main carcass of the belt slightly below the edge of the sheaves. This is on the tight side, but, that's the way I like it.
Once you have the backlash set it's time to insert the roller pins. Separate the sheaves and apply a small amount of grease inside of the outer portion of the shaft. Also take this time to inspect the orings inside the shaft . They keep what little grease that is in there from slinging out. This is a look at the inside of the outer portion of the secondary shaft. You'll see the holes the small end of the roller pins go into. This is where you apply a small amount of grease. You can also see the o-rings.
This is a pic of the inner portion of the secondary shaft. You can see the spiral slots that the big end of the roller pins ride in.
Slide the sheaves together and wipe off any excess grease . I use a large flathead screwdriver with a dab of grease on the end to hold the roller and insert it into it's slot. Rolling the sheaves opposite of each other helps you find the hole the small part of the roller fits into.
It's time to install the spring. Here's a pic of the stock and almond springs.
Slide the washer and cup onto the secondary. Place the spring in the cup and the retainer on top. Place the snap ring on the rod of the compressor and attach the saddle of the puller to the rod and then the nut.
Carefully compress the spring and once it's compressed far enough install snap ring into it's slot and slowly release the compressor.
SECONDARY INSTALLATION: Slide the secondary onto the shaft and install the two washers and nut. The nut has right hand threads so you will turn it to the right to tighten it. Tighten to 69lbs. (27mm socket)
PRIMARY INSTALLATION With the directional arrow on the belt facing forward , place the belt over the secondary and maneuver the primary through the belt and onto the crankshaft. Insert the bolt through the primary and tighten to 69 ftlbs. Remember the bolt has left hand threads so you will turn it to the left to tighten.
Recheck the backlash by laying a straight edge across the top of the belt and pushing down on the belt measure how far the belt droops down. If it's not right remove or add shims as needed.
Install the CVT cover applying dielectric silicon compound to the plugs on the Kebc harness. Also make sure the belt light switch isn't tripped.
One last tip....wrap the threads of your primary puller with electrical tape to protect the threads.
